I wrote this piece for Nomad Magazine and it appeared in the July 2017 edition It’s 7am and I’m on the back of a boda (motorbike taxi), winging my way down the Mombasa road toward Nairobi’s shiny new railway station to take the much lauded, somewhat controversial (here’s my piece about the cost), (and my piece about lives ruined by sand harvesting needed to build it), Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) train to Mombasa. After 40 minutes of careering along, cutting through the traffic and hanging on to my boda driver for dear life, I decide this should not be called… View Post

Set down a narrow cobbled street in the heart of charming Shella Village, Zahir House is a traditional Lamu home with whitewashed walls, wooden shutters and intricately carved furniture. The bedrooms are spread over five floors, two of them with terraces offering views of sand dunes in one direction and dhow boats sailing across the water in the other. On the ground floor, there’s a lovely plunge pool for cooling off from the Lamu heat, and a hot tub on one of the higher floors to warm up of an evening in the chilly months. We visited back in February,… View Post

This piece was originally published in Nomad Magazine. “These are the last campers,” joked my friend, Ruthie, motioning towards the dusty, cracked jawbone of a zebra lying discarded on the ground. We’d been strolling across the parched Laikipia landscape for the past two hours with our guide Joseph, and couldn’t help noticing that the remnants of prey seemed to increase as we approached the camp where we were to spend the night. Joseph chuckled at our observations. In his 20 years working at El Karama Lodge, many of them as a guide, he has used the gun he carries. So… View Post

Surprising as it may be to some, Nairobi is filled with quirky shops, delicious restaurants, wild nature walks, tranquil little cafes and great party spots. Here’s a handpicked selection of my absolute favourite things to do in the city: Moniko’s, Valley Arcade Nairobi is full of little oasis’ that help you escape from the traffic and tribulations of daily life in the city and this may be one my favourites. Located in the back court of Valley Arcade, Moniko’s is owned by a food passionate Swede who emigrated to Kenya over 10 years ago. The restaurant looks like to belongs… View Post

“The self-made man does not exist in Africa. If the motto of Europe is individualism: `I think therefore I am,’ Africa’s would be communalism: `I relate, therefore I am.’ In Zulu there is a saying: `One is a person through others,’ or, as John Mbiti, the Kenyan theologian, put it: `I am because we are and, since we are, therefore I am.’” Richard Dowden, Africa, Altered States, Ordinary Miracles The best part of Nairobi is the social relationships you can build here. Whilst the expat scene is wonderful, with interesting people from all over the world, there are also great… View Post

Sport is big in Kenya, especially the capital Nairobi. With its year round great weather, the city is ideal for those who want to get outside and play their favourite game. In addition, Kenyans love watching, and arguing about, football. Below is a selection some of the sporting highlights of Nairobi: Where to watch football in Nairobi Most football matches in Nairobi are played at Nyayo Stadium in the Industrial Area or Kasarani Stadium. Whilst the majority of Kenya Premier League matches are fairly quiet, any game involving Gor Mahia, or AFC Leopards tend to be fairly raucous. The derby between… View Post